Châine des Rôtisseurs members from the Bailliage de Eastern Seaboard and their guests received a very warm welcome from the staff at the luxuriant Andaz Pattaya Resort and were directed to proceed to the Garden Pavillion event venue. Presented with a glass of Vranken Pommery Demoiselle Brut Champagne, members met members, friends re-acquainted with friends and new acquaintances were made on the terrace with the background of the resort’s signature garden.
Vranken Pommery Demoiselle Brut Champagne. Produced by the Vranken-Pommery Monopole Group that also includes Heidseieck & Co, the pale yellow-green colour attests to the presence of Chardonay in the blend. A stunning array of aromas with the freshness of green apple and the creamy, slightly buttery flavours mingling in harmony. Fine structure on the palate, smooth and with a strikingly long finish.
To whet our appetites pre-dinner hors d’oeuvres included: subtly flavoured Steak Tartare Crostini, an innovative Boston lobster Tartlet, Devilled Eggs with Smoked Caviar and crispy Smoked Potato and Manchego Cheese Empanada. All paired perfectly with the Vranken Pommery.
Members and guests were then invited to take their seats in the contemporary Garden Pavillion. Personalised menus indicated the Châine style of detail & elegance. Our MC, Baili Raymond Whitley opened the evening with a short speech and introduced Chef Ben Rowe who had prepared our seasonally themed menu for the evening. For our musical delectation, Ray revealed that we would be entertained by the exceptional B2F band from Holland.
The first dish presented was Mulled Wine Cured Salmon with Prunier Oscietra Caviar, Horseradish Cream and Caper Berries. A most creative dish, beautifully presented, the salmon was soft and succulent having well absorbed the subtle flavour of the Mulled Wine curing, creating an interesting contrast of flavours. Somehow, mulled wine and salmon are opposite on the flavour scale, yet the gentle flavour of the mulled wine in the salmon brought out instinctive, festive memories. The horseradish cream and caviar provided more recognisable tastes and caper berries produced hints of tanginess and saltiness on the palate. An innovative and highly interesting dish.
Paired with a First Press Napa Valley Chardonnay 2019, this classic ripe peach and vanilla-scented Napa chardonnay was fragrant and fresh with white florals, fresh apple and delicate pineapple aromas. Elegantly structured on the palate, this was a medium-bodied Chardonnay that slowly produced a lingering finish that fully complemented the dish.
Our next culinary delight was a magnificent Foie Gras Terrine, Chesnuts, Pistachio, Fig and Date. Chef Ben Rowe had continued the seasonal theme with a subtly flavoured, delicate foie gras terrine prepared on a bed of Christmas flavours. Again an interesting concept and a challenge to the taste buds to associate these recognisable flavours together! After an initial confusion, the flavours proceeded to complement each other creating an almost provocative blend on the palate.
Interestingly the foie gras was paired with a Vignoble Klein Alsace Gewurztraminer AOC 2018. Whilst initially causing some consternation amongst the diners as to the suitability it proved to be a brave pairing. Coming from a small vineyard of just 9 hectares the bouquet was not the typical strong lychee, but rather a more subtle expression. Well balanced with the fruit, alcohol and acidity working in harmony with a light body.
Our next course was a Jerusalem Artichoke “Cappuccino” a complex dish of intricate flavours generously adorned with black winter truffle. The elegant Jerusalem artichoke soup well matched the morels whilst the delicate foam created the Cappuccino effect and conjured emotions of a cold winter day somewhere in our native homelands.
Paired with a Château Haut-Vigneau, Pessac-Leognan Blanc AOC 2020 was another perfect pairing as the Sauvignon (85%) blended with Sémillon (15%) from Bordeaux perfectly complemented the richness of the Jerusalem Artichoke and the truffle. The wine demonstrated mango notes in a floral, aromatic palette. Exotic fruits in the mouth and a great balance of structure, minerality, acidity and fruits. A dry white that endorsed its origin from the Pessac-Léognan appellation.
Our palates, and stomachs(!) were provided with a brief respite from the culinary delights with a most refreshing Longnan Sherbert with a Gin & Tonic Jelly with Finger Lime. A delicate dish bursting with vitality and a wonderfully freshening tart and acidic flavour garnished with Australian finger lime. These rather unassuming fruits burst open with caviar-sized ‘eggs’ exploding with a tangy lime flavour, a first for the author!
After a pause whilst we were entertained by the marvellous B2F band from Holland, the onslaught of delicacies continued with a Char Roasted Australian Angus Striploin beautifully presented with Baby Carrots, Oyster Mushrooms, Port Jus and a Tarragon Soubise Sauce. Beautiful presentation with the Char Roasted striploin pink throughout with a perfect blend of robust flavour and tenderness. Whilst many suggested that this must have been using the Sous Vide technique, Chef Rowe corrected us, explaining that the striploin had indeed been char roasted, indicating that a chef had painstakingly slowly alternated between heat and rest to ensure a charred exterior with soft pink, yet cooked through, meat. A masterpiece of design and flavours with the port jus and tarragon soubise sauce providing subtle additional flavour to the strip-loin perfection.
Admirably paired with a noble Tenuta Ulisse Amaranta Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC(Magnum) 14%. Now aged in new French barriques, this wine combines class, nobility and sensuality.Powerful ruby red in the glass with an elegant and full-bodied character. On the nose it offered a robust taste of berries and well-ripe red berries, combined with a spicy aftertaste. In the mouth it was balanced, complex, with the tannic structure well blended with the alcoholic component. Substantial body and an excellent balance between alcoholic strength, freshness and tannin. The finish was long carried by fruit and spice. An excellent and highly complementary pairing.
This was followed by an Artisan Cheese Selection with condiments, freshly baked bread and salted butter. Again superb presentation featuring a Brie de Meaux and a Comte aged 36 months with Truffle Honey and Fig. The Brie de Meaux was rich, creamy with a slightly salty flavour. Very slightly bitter after taste. The 36 month Comte was hard, sharp with a complex flavour of nuts, sweetness, fruit and savoury notes
Paired with a Fabiano Amarone Classico Riserva DOCG (2017 Vintage) this was a spectacular wine that possibly did not receive the admiration that it deserved. Made in limited quantities from Cornina Veronese, Corvinone, Rondella and Osleta grapes that are dried and fermented at a controlled temperature for over 60 days in order to favour the extraction of the noblest parts of the grape. Intense dark red colour with violet reflections. The wine releases sensual notes of red jam and spices on the nose. On the palate it is majestic, and powerful, with soft tannins and a fresh acidity that presents a finish with remarkable persistence with notes of plum and cocoa. At 16% alcohol it slightly overpowered the excellent but subdued flavours of the cheeses.
By this stage of the evening the excellent B2F Band from Holland was in full form and fuelled with some excellent wines, many participants had commenced to dance and fully enjoy all the evening offered.
However Chef Row had additional surprises for us. Firstly the delightful Christmas Pudding Mouse Cake with Cherry Jelly and Crème Anglaise. The pastry chefs had toiled for hours to create these adorable desserts. Beautifully prepared, colourful and bursting with flavour with Christmas senses, these were delicious and immaculately prepared. Sadly for many it had become a challenge to consume more than a taste.
The Christmas Pudding Mousse Cake was paired with an impressive Disznókö Tokaji 1413 Szamorodni Edes (2018 Vintage). A new style of Tokaji from the Tokay region of Hungary with a blend of Furmint(93%) and Hárslevelü grapes, the nose is laden with honey and light lime marmalade aromas, plenty of sweet nectarine and nuances of Bergamot and tobacco. In the mouth it is unctuous and rich, fully sweet and so much exotic fruit and honey, with the acid singing clearly above the rich fruit and oak spice. A terrific new style of Tokaji.
Petit-Four Parade. As if our imbibement had not added many calories and inches to waistlines, the Pastry Chefs had also created a delightful and amusing selection of Festively themed Petit-Fours for our final delectation.
The service at the Andaz Pattaya was perfection throughout. Un-obtrusive yet proficient waiting staff ensured that each course was served in perfect synchronisation. It was a great pleasure at the conclusion of the meal to be able to thank Chef Benn Rowe and his exemplary team for the exceptional culinary delights that had been painstakingly prepared for our degustation. “Carefully Sourced, Thoughtfully Served”
Accompanied by a range of highly complementary wine pairings, in the refined yet relaxed atmosphere of the Garden Pavillion at the Andaz Pattaya and accompanied by the professional sound of the incredible B2F Band from Holland it was a Châine Des Rôtisseurs Bailliage de Easter Seaboard evening to remember.
Vive le Chaîne!
Châine des Rôtisseurs Baillaige National De Thailand
MeanderingTales.com, December 2024
